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Archive | cafe

A Month of Macaron Madness

February 14, 2017 by Mary Bradford

One of the three bazillion trays of macaron shells we made.

I started preparing for Valentine’s Day a month ago. No, not plotting any grand romantic gesture for a significant other – this is a different sort of relationship. I’m talking about my love/hate affair with macarons.

What is it about macarons that seems to have enchanted everyone with Instagram? Here in the states, these French almond cookies that sandwich a soft, flavored filling have become quite a phenomenon. Is it the bright colors? Is it the shatteringly crisp exterior that gives way to a delightfully chewy center? I suspect the fact that they’re French has a lot to do with it; Je ne sais quoi and all that.

When we decided we wanted to offer a special something for Valentine’s Day, everyone in the kitchen agreed that there could be no more perfect way to express our love of chocolate than a box of macarons that showcased five of our single origin chocolates.

The reason macarons are usually only found in bakeries and restaurants, rather than the home kitchen, is probably that they are a rather intimidating project to take on. Admittedly, if you don’t have a great deal of experience making them, even if you’re a professional baker like I am, the prospect of making macarons can be a little…frightening. My team and I had made macarons for our café’s Chef’s Tasting Menu with success before we took on this challenge, but we had never had the pleasure of making them on a monstrous scale in such a tiny timeframe. For Valentine’s Day, we planned to make at least one hundred boxes, with ten macarons in each. My calculator watch tells me that that amounts to 2,000 shells. No big deal, right? We had a month.

The utter relief of pulling the last tray from the oven.

The thing about macarons is that something can go wrong at nearly every single step of the process, and they are delicate: the almond flour must be ground and sifted finely enough, the egg whites must be at room temperature, the meringue must be folded into the almond-sugar mixture enough (but not too much!) This process is known as macaronage, and when done correctly produces a thick batter that flows like lava but still holds its shape when piped. This is the hardest part and can only be perfected through practice. Throw our chocolate into the mix, which doesn’t always like to behave like normal chocolate in the pastry kitchen, and you’ve got your work cut out for you. Then of course you have the temperature and humidity of your kitchen to deal with because it just wouldn’t be fun unless the very elements of nature were against you, too.

When we started this project, I immediately began working the macaron shift, churning them out and stowing them away in the freezer to be filled with ganache right before the big day. They all came out perfectly, and I was queen of the macarons.

And then I wasn’t.

I may never know why, but suddenly they were coming out wrong. There were batches that would come out looking like I was making a different cookie altogether. I had not changed anything about my process, and yet the results were, shall we say, less than ideal. There were batches that came out wrinkled on top, ones that spread out too much and stuck to each other, some that looked grainy, and some horrific ones that cracked and deflated into sad brown puddles. And we weren’t even halfway to our 2,000 macaron goal.

That was a bad week. In the depths of my macaron despair, I questioned everything I thought I knew about making them, I tried tweaking my method in various ways, with no success. Finally, I decided to try making them with Italian meringue – pouring cooked sugar syrup into whipped egg whites, instead of a French meringue, where the uncooked sugar is added alone to the whites. French meringue had worked so well for me in the past, and I didn’t think it would make a difference, but I was desperate for a solution. When I made this new batch using the Italian method, I could feel it – this was going to work. And it did.

I don’t know the exact science behind why I could suddenly make macarons again, but this is what I have learned about them: they take practice. You can feel when you’re doing it right: the texture of the batter will be smooth and flowing, and just beginning to get shiny. Once you know that feeling, your macarons will always come out perfectly (well, almost always). And so, with the help of my rockstar pastry team, we made 2,010 macaron shells, plus one extra batch for good measure. We figured out how to assemble the boxes and tie the bows on 100 sets of macarons for Valentine’s Day, a few of which are still left for those of you procrastinators who waited until tonight to grab something for your darling (or yourself, which I advocate). Consider it our way of saying Happy Valentine’s Day, with love, from the Dandelion Chocolate kitchen to you.

 

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Our Holiday Digs on Santana Row

December 16, 2016 by Kelsey

 

Outside looking in at 378 Santana Row, #1100

Outside looking in at 378 Santana Row, #1100

We launched our first ever Holiday Pop Up on Santana Row nearly a month ago, and it’s been a whirlwind of adventure filled with new friends, chocolate samples, health permits, melanger demos, breaking (and fixing) things, testing our logistics capacity, and more. In fact, we didn’t even figure out how to turn on the heat in this building until last week, but what’s life but an adventure, right?

Way back when, Todd and Elaine lived in Santana Row above Pizza Antica from 2005 to 2012. For them, it was in that apartment that the very beginning of a rich journey into chocolate would blossom. What started as a hobby, making test batches in their kitchen, quickly grew into the Dandelion Chocolate we know today. There is a lot of nostalgia for us on this block. We even have the same cacao tree (that’s trying against all odds to stay standing up) at our Valencia Street cafe that once called Pizza Antica home.

We have Four Barrel espresso! Chocolate bars! And a fantastic view of the plaza!

We have Four Barrel espresso! Chocolate bars! And a fantastic view of the plaza!

 

And so, when Santana Row management contacted Todd about doing a pop-up for the holidays, it was hard to refuse an opportunity to come home again, in some sense. The available space is a whopping 3,000 some square feet, almost the size of our Valencia St. factory and cafe. In other words…way too big for little ol’ us to make use of without starting an entirely new factory. So, we made a cozy corner out of that space for a hot chocolate stand.

Gingerbread Hot Chocolate. Photo taken by Yelper, Maleah M.

Gingerbread Hot Chocolate. Photo taken by Yelper, Maleah M.

Through the hard work of Dandelion team members, we were able to literally pop up in what seemed like overnight. A huge shout-out to Maverick, Snooky and Vic, Dandelion’s in-house handy folk, who designed and constructed a mobile cart to house our espresso machine, sink, fridge and cash register. Our design team created a beautiful retail space to fill with holiday gifts and our tasty chocolate bars. We welcomed a whole new team of seven baristas to help us tell our story in San Jose and share our chocolate with the community here.  The cafe is intimate, to say the least. But we have plenty of outdoor seating for people to hide from the rain and enjoy a frothy, chocolatey drink.

 

Furry friends welcome...for visits, not chocolate scarfing.

Furry friends welcome…for visits, not chocolate scarfing.

 

Plus, we’re having fun with our new neighbors and the locals in the area. It is a real treat to be able to get out and explore a familiar yet new area at the same time. We’ll be open until December 24th, so if you’re in the area please stop by and say hello!

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A Dispatch from the Ferry Building Hot Chocolate Stand

October 13, 2016 by Maverick Watson

The Ferry Building is a lot of things: an iconic bayside tower, a commuter terminal, the beating center of local commerce in San Francisco, and it’s our home. We love the Ferry Building, and we’ve been happy to be a part of the community there for about two years.

Our Mission Hot Chocolate (with treat sleeve) on the Ferry Observation Deck

Our Mission Hot Chocolate on the Ferry Observation Deck

In February we upgraded from our small kiosk near the entrance to a full-fledged café, which we lovingly call our Hot Chocolate Stand, and moved around the corner. You’ll find the same retail offerings on our shelves in addition to our full beverage menu from our Valencia Street Cafe, and of course, our own Lisa Vega’s pastries. Last week we moved up our opening hours to 7am on Monday through Friday to provide Mochas (or just a cup of Four Barrel Coffee) to the commuters and downtown offices around us!

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Our new spot is a tad less obvious than our old kiosk. We’re located outside of the actual building in the North Arcade alongside Marla Bakery, Fort Point Brewery, Blue Bottle Coffee and Sow Juice.

This is really exhausting.

This is really exhausting.

We’re here every day, anytime you need some hot chocolate to go with the kale and persimmons you just got at the CUESA Farmer’s Market on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Occasionally, we have special events too! This week, as part of the Third Thursday “Night Cafe” put on by the Ferry Building, we will be pairing our chocolate with beers from Fort Point Brewery and making chocolate with a metate, the way the Maya have done it for centuries!

Next time you’re down at the Ferry Building, come by and let us make you a hot chocolate or a coffee. On a nice day, you can walk a little ways to sit down and watch the sea lions. Most of the time they’re just sleeping, but with a hot chocolate in hand anything can be interesting. Right?

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New Pastry: Fig Tart!

September 27, 2016 by Lisa Vega

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I love figs. When I was growing up in my mother’s house, we had a Black Mission fig tree in the backyard that produced the most delicious, plump little figs in the summertime. I especially love how they pair with chocolate—that syrupy sweetness with a tart edge on top of a classic, chocolatey chocolate. When figs came into season this year, I knew I wanted to do something with them.

To start, we grabbed a few Adriatic figs, which are a little rounder, greener, and sweeter than most (at least to me they are), some classic Black Mission figs, and opened our pantry door to see what we could make.

A tart is a perfect way to layer flavors and textures, and it offers a million ways to build dimension into your dessert. We started our R&D with a honey ganache in an almond sable crust, topped with sliced figs. It was delicious, sure, but a little too plain. To cut through those soft, sweet layers, we added a bit of goat cheese mascarpone on the bottom. Now, all it needed is a little texture: honeycomb! We boiled up some honey, sugar, and water, whisked in the baking soda and let it set into a flaky, crunchy honeycomb that melts on your tongue.

Like all good things, fig season won’t last forever. If I had to guess, I’d say we’ve got two more good weeks left until the figs are gone and the pumpkins are here. So drop in soon and get one while they last!

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Q & A: Maverick Watson

April 4, 2016 by Molly Gore

Every other Monday, we’ll introduce you to a member of the Dandelion community through a Q & A. Stay tuned to meet our chocolate makers, café staff, kitchen team, producers, partners, importers, mentors, and everyone who helps make our chocolate possible. This week, we’d like you to meet Maverick—a longtime fixture in our coffee program, inventor of our Ecuador Cold Brew and the fizzy Cure-All, and part-time cowboy. 

NAME: Maverick Watsonmav

HOMETOWN: Moorpark, California

FAVORITE CHOCOLATE: 85% Camino Verde (Dandelion)

WORKED AT DANDELION SINCE: January 2013

POSITION: Ferry Building Manager

Q: Hi Maverick!

A: Hey!

Q: So, first of all, congratulations on the new job! Until yesterday you were the longtime Café Mentor with a Focus in Beverage Management, and now you’re Dandelion’s Ferry Building Manager. How excited are you to have a job title with a reasonable number of words in it?

A: I’m very excited.

Q: But really. You’ve been at Dandelion forever (since 2013), how does it feel switching gears?

A: I’m really excited to start this new phase with Dandelion. The Ferry Building is a very different space, kind of separated from the rest of Dandelion, and one of my biggest goals is figuring out how to make a more cohesive cultural connection between the Ferry Building and the rest of the company.

Q: You joined Dandelion to help open the café on Valencia Street. How has it changed since those days?

A: I came on before the café or factory were built out, when the whole space was more of a Confusing Retail Location and Chocolate Museum. I think when we started, things were more free flowing, and as we’ve grown we’ve developed a lot of structure and systems for organized growth. There’s been a lot of trial and error. Strategically, we’re a lot more effective. Also, things don’t break as often, which is nice. Now, our employees come with experience that makes sense, whereas in 2013, our lawyer Joey was tempering bars.

Q: What did you do as the café mentor?

A: I was basically an assistant manager, maintaining our drinks program and adding drinks to the menu, training staff, maintaining quality standards, and all that. I do recipe research, and sometimes manage disasters like grease traps and broken sinks.

Dandelion-cafe-250

Q: Grease traps are gross. What’s the worst maintenance disaster you’ve ever had to deal with?

A: When the grease trap overfilled for the first time, it was horrifying. I won’t go into too much detail but I remember Cam being elbow deep in the sludge. We tried hard to stay open but eventually we broke out the Shop Vacs and had to close. That disaster was second to the notorious glass pastry case explosion two years ago. 

Q: What do you like about working on the other side of the café counter?

A: I like the dynamic atmosphere; no two days are exactly the same. I get to work with a lot of amazing people. People get really excited about this space, which helps me see it with fresh eyes every day. That’s one of the most amazing things about working here—it’s easy to get tunnel vision when you’re here every day, and not realize how amazing this place is, but when someone comes in who has never been here before they have this look on their face that reminds you “Yeah, this is a special thing that’s happening.” It’s also fun to see the company grow.

Q: You make those leather-cuffed mugs we sell during Christmas, and a lot of us know you as a part time leatherworker. Tell me about that.

A: My fiance and I have a company, Steer and Arbor. She does woodworking and I do leather. We make and sell handcrafted utilitarian items.

Q: Utilitarian? Like hammers?

A: Like spoons, tables, cutting boards, belts, and bags. We sell at craft fairs, online, and on the factory shelves when the holidays roll around.

Q: If you had a superpower, what would it be?

A: An endless supply of dad jokes.

Q: I mean, that pager on your belt is kind of a dad joke.

A: It’s not a pager, it’s my phone holster. On second thought, does having a car phone qualify as a superpower? It should.

Q: It definitely should. Next question: if you could serve coffee to anyone from history, who would it be?

A: Herman Melville. And I’d ask him about the meaning of the great white whale.

Q: That’s a big question. 

A: I’m a big man.

Q: I know you are.

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Canelé. Passionfruit. Pancetta.

January 15, 2016 by Lisa Vega

For the past few weeks, Executive Pastry Chef Lisa Vega and our pastry team have been busy developing three new recipes to coincide with the opening of our Ferry Building brick-and-mortar space. Below, she recounts just how it all came together. 

IMG_5189A canelé is a beautiful thing, but as any home cook or pastry chef knows, they’re so hard to make well. I’ve always thought that if everyone in my kitchen can bake a perfect canelé, that means we have the skills to do just about anything. To kick us off on recipe development, I sent Meredyth, Lucy, Lia, and Mary this essay by Paula Wolfert about the history and closely-guarded secrets of the canelé; the recipe is filled with places to trip up: seasoning the copper molds with a perfectly even, paper-thin coat of butter and beeswax in a way that doesn’t leave puddles or holes in the crust of the pastry, flipping them out of the molds while still hot, baking them them to the perfect threshold that crisps the crust but doesn’t over-bake the custard inside.

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The cakes themselves are fluted and small enough to hold in your palm, and the hallmark of a good one is the shining, crackling, nearly blackened crust of caramelized sugar around a pillowy soft baked custard inside. A classic canelé is vanilla, but we’re not traditionalists in this kitchen. Ours, of course, is chocolate. Deep, dark chocolate. It took two weeks of constant recipe testing, but we’ve finally nailed it, and though the bakers in Bordeaux 300 years ago would slap my wrist for saying it, I think chocolate is a canelé’s best friend.

IMG_5200IMG_5204IMG_5209crust

Next, we decided to work on something more seasonal: a chocolate passionfruit tart. Meredyth calls these “Drake tarts” because we usually blast Drake over the Jambox when we make them—a good soundtrack to dozens of recipe iterations and shortbread dough that won’t stop cracking when you tuck it into the mold. In the end, we ended up with a rum -and-coconut caramel, a ganache with passionfruit purée and Camino Verde chocolate topped with toasted meringue and coconut, all inside a buttery, chocolate shortbread crust.

And for our final, salty finale, we tried something we’ve never tried before: a savory pastry. I’ve always wanted to include something savory, so we got to work on what I think is a wonderful new counterpart to our most chocolatey chocolate: pancetta. We use pancetta from The Fatted Calf—not too salty—which works quite nicely with the nibs and buttery richness of our nibby scone. We also peppered in a few Deglet Noor dates (Medjools were too sweet and mushy) for a little more earthy sweetness, and behold: the Pancetta Scone. Enjoy!

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Closed for the Holidays

December 24, 2015 by Todd

DC_CLOSED

See you all next year!

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A Day in the Life of a Dandelion Pastry Chef

June 5, 2015 by Meredyth Haas

Tucked in the back corner of our factory on Valencia street, through double doors leading down a narrow hallway, lies a 12×12 foot tiled room, the contents and activities of which are largely unseen and perpetually enveloped by the sweet nutty scent of browning butter and baking brownies. This is the Dandelion Chocolate kitchen.

While visitors can watch the production team sort beans, crack, winnow, temper, and wrap bars in our open factory space, the process of making pastries is less visible.  As a member of our small but mighty pastry team, I can assure you the days are long, the pace is fast, and the work is tiring.  Each week, our team produces and sells over 1800 pastries, 1200 marshmallows, and 47 gallons of hot chocolate. Nothing compares, however, to the adrenaline rush of a busy Saturday stocking the café with fresh treats. Here at Dandelion, Saturday is gameday: a attempt to satisfy the deluge of locals, tourists, regulars, first dates, families, and anyone else seeking a chocolate fix on a weekend afternoon. What follows is an account of what a busy Saturday looks like for the Dandelion kitchen.

7:30am:

Valencia Street is deserted. I unlock the front door and see that Lisa, our executive pastry chef, has already arrived. Mary, Dandelion’s other pastry assistant, walks in right behind me.

7:45am:

Aprons on. Ovens on. Towels folded and stacked. Sanitizer bucket filled. Production list double-checked, tasks assigned, and taped to the back of the Hobart mixer. Nibbun dough and marshmallows pulled from the fridge. Let the morning bake begin!

First in the oven go brownies, Nutella-stuffed cookies, malt cookies, tart shells, and graham cracker squares. Mary puts the European Drinking chocolate on a double boiler, and pulls logs of nibby oatmeal cookie dough from the freezer to cut (these are the small cookies we serve with every drink). I start making a triple batch of our Double Shot espresso cookie, and Lisa cuts small squares of red velvet beet cake.

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8:30am:

Our first round bake is done, and the kitchen island is open for bun business! Mary rolls out the dough, which has risen overnight in the fridge. She spreads it with chocolate custard, brown sugar, nibs, and starts rolling.

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Meanwhile, Lisa fills tart shells with coconut ganache and lime filling, and  prepares the rest of the components of the Chef’s Tasting menu. Nib tuile is baked, panna cotta and PBJ cups are portioned, and mini s’mores are assembled.

9:00am:

Nibbuns, now rolled and sliced, are set on top of the oven to proof. I spread malt cookies with malt ganache, and top each graham cracker with a fluffy square marshmallow that we piped into silicone molds the day before.

Mary makes a quick batch of mascarpone cream, a cloudlike blend of mascarpone, sugar, and egg yolks gently folded into a french meringue. She dips each circular ladyfinger in decaf espresso and layers soaked cookies, chocolate cremeux, and mascarpone cream into each Weck jar.

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Lisa weighs each three ounce portion of toffee, preparing at least four trays for what we’re all convinced is going to be the busiest Saturday yet. We each make predictions for that day’s sales, based on factors like weather, time of the year, nearby festivals, and just that general gut feeling—Lisa’s got a knack for predicting our busy days, and she’s pretty convinced today will be nuts. Bring it on!

9:30am:

Thirty minutes to opening means it’s almost showtime. At this point Nibbuns are in the oven and every pastry receives its final touch-up. Tarts are garnished, smores are filled with ganache, dulce de leche bars are salted, and tiramisus are dusted with chocolate. I open the freezer to see how many frozen praline mousses we’ve got to start, hoping we didn’t sell out last night. Luckily, six jars remain in the hotel pan. I check the production list and Mary is in charge of making mousse today. I put a star next to it so she knows that project should take priority. Mary quickly butters and sugars the Nibbuns and I bring up the European drinking chocolate before we officially open at 10:00am.

10:00am:

Coffee! One of our opening barista rockstars delivers two pour overs and a cappuccino to the kitchen. The adrenaline that fueled the two-hour morning bake is happily replaced with caffeine. While scarfing down hard boiled eggs or a cup of yogurt, we each review our production lists. I mentally organize my day based on prioritization, kitchen space, and equipment required for certain tasks, and appropriately timing projects that require several steps.

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With production in full swing, these next few hours are our most efficient. Before the line is out the door later in the day, we focus on longer-term projects to stock up for the days ahead, such as brownie batters, graham cracker dough, chocolate syrup, candied nibs, and custards.

11:30am:

We hear a familiar chime and receive our first message of the day on our iPad; we read that someone just bought 25 Double Shot cookies for a party. Mary grabs the espresso powder from the pantry shelf, and I know she’s already on top of making another batch.

Our kitchen iPad, which hangs from a pastry shelf under the measuring cups, is the kitchen’s lifeline for several reasons. First, it plays our much needed Justin Timberlake albums, Yacht Rock Pandora mix, or NPR to ensure maximum kitchen efficiency. More important is its main function as a communication tool with front-of-house staff. They text us when they are running low on a certain pastry or drink so we can restock their supply, and we text them with updates of when a item we’re preparing might be ready to sell.

1:00pm:

In the middle of scaling out malt dough, I open the lid of our baking soda container to find a measly pinch at the bottom, and no back-up bin on the pantry shelf. One of us has to go buy some– we need this dough for tomorrow. Lisa offers to run to our local market, Bi-Rite, for baking soda and lunch.  Now is as good a time as any to take a short break.

1:30pm:

Fueled by Bi-Rite sandwiches (try the Vegan Hippy!) scarfed down in our aprons on the mezzanine stairs, we return to the kitchen to find more messages on the iPad from the café (“8 Nutella cookies! 4 Brownie flights! Any Nib Infused Whip Cream back there?”). It’s that time of day when things really start getting crazy– the growing line of customers likely won’t disappear until we lock the doors nine hours from now.

2:45pm:

“Out of marshmallows!” the iPad reads. “Double Euro please! Someone bought all the toffee!” quickly follows. Inevitably, the timing couldn’t be any more inconvenient. To heat another batch of European drinking chocolate, we’ll need a third burner, and all three are currently being used for time consuming projects: I’m boiling sugar syrup to make marshmallows, Mary is stirring a large pot of sugar, butter, and sweetened condensed milk to make dulce de leche, and Lisa is tempering chocolate, which requires heating and cooling chocolate to exact temperatures.

Every work surface is covered: sheets of toffee, marshmallow molds, bowls of flour and eggs, kitchen scales and thermometers cover every surface. Right when my marshmallow syrup reaches 261° exactly, I lift the pot from the burner, yelling the requisite “hot pot behind!” as I bring it to the Hobart mixer and stream it into the whipping egg whites. At the same moment, Lisa’s chocolate has reached 34° and she immediately spreads the chocolate onto a full sheet tray of toffee, working quickly while the chocolate is in temper. The dulce de leche Mary has been stirring for the past 25 minutes finally reaches the right thickness and she uses a spatula to spread it onto three baked crusts. After a minute or two of whipping, my marshmallow has reached maximum volume and I pull the large bowl from the mixer, fill piping bags with the warm white goop, and start filling molds, working quickly before the marshmallow stiffens inside the bags. At this exact moment, a shoulder-high delivery of milk arrives at the door of the kitchen, a timer goes off, and we notice the dishwashing machine has flooded again. Never a dull moment in the Dandelion kitchen!

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3:45pm:

At this point in the day, major production projects have been completed. We’re working on a large second bake to stock the cafe with enough pastries to sell until 10pm closing: 35 more Nutella, 15 more malt cookies, 11 more brownie flights, and a few more sliced logs of free treats go in the oven.

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4:45pm:

We bring up the fresh cookies and brownies, and weigh four more trays of toffee for the cafe. Lisa writes a production list for tomorrow, Mary writes a list of available backup pastries on our kitchen dry erase board, and I cut half sheets of parchment, refill salt and vanilla extract containers, and wrap, label, and date everything. I see we’re running low on cinnamon, and add it to our pantry order list. Then—at last—it’s time to scrub down. All surfaces, doors, and appliances in the kitchen get a hot, soapy bath, followed by a towel dry. We take out the trash, sweep the floors, and hand wash our chocolate-and-marshmallow-spattered aprons.

Before hopping on my bike to meet friends for dinner, I grab a warm Nutella-stuffed cookie from behind the counter, and take a large, gooey, deeply satisfying bite. Despite being constantly surrounded by chocolate, sugar, butter and the treats created from their divine fusion, I still—without exception—eat dessert every single day, and today I’m eating it first.

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The Lost Hot Chocolate

April 30, 2015 by Kaylen Baker

Kaylen Baker—one of our café baristas—takes a look at hot chocolate through the eyes of one of history’s original gastronomes, Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin. 

It’s hard to forget your first hot chocolate. I sipped mine inside Angelina’s, off the rue de Rivoli in Paris, where Marcel Proust allegedly dined. I’m talking about the thick stuff, not the scalding, sandy-textured, cocoa-water of the collective American youth (though that’s just as hard to forget; the smell of chlorine and campfire comes to my mind). I still remember steam coming from my cup, the bowl of whipped cream, and a blanketing sensation as molten chocolate rolled across my tongue and hit my taste receptors, flooding my brain with sweet signals. The moment felt holy.

Since then, I’ve spent five years hunting down and devouring this beverage in all its variations: sipping chocolate, chocolat chaud à l’ancienne, European drinking chocolate, even “l’africain” (a perplexing nod to colonial imperialism). Its modes are endless: slurped from bowls, chewed with cinnamon-sugar churros, flavored with strawberries, deconstructed with a meltable chocolate spoon. Dripping, thick-skinned, coagulated, and cooling, hot chocolate takes so many forms. But there’s one version that continues to evade me, and my search—like Proust’s—is futile, because I’m looking for a hot chocolate from a lost time. Let me explain.

brillat

One of the few portraits of Brillat-Savarin, here he sits with pen and paper at a table laden with fruit.

In 1825 a Frenchman named Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin published a book about food. Or rather, a book about survival and the human spirit, using food as both the key and the keyhole (we’ll assume that the door opens a forbidden pantry) to a happy life. He called it The Physiology of Taste, or Meditations on Transcendental Gastronomy, and he called himself the Professor (he was not). If you haven’t heard of Brillat-Savarin, you’ve at least heard his famous phrase, “Tell me what you eat, and I shall tell you what you are.”

A country lawyer, amateur violinist, and suppertime storyteller, Brillat-Savarin lived long enough to witness 71 years of drastic change in France: the birth of fine-dining, the invention of the guillotine, bread riots, bloody riots, the death of the monarchy, rolling heads, and the rise of haute cuisine. Amidst all this, Brillat-Savarin jotted down alimentary observations. He made talking about lunch trendy long before we started to Instagram our plates.

But what does he have to do with hot chocolate? Well, by this time, the drink had already leaked across the continent, carried over the mountains by monks and a princess, one Anne of Austria. It caught like the bubonic plague, but this time people praised God. In fact, in 1753 Swedish botanist Karl von Linné dubbed the tree cacao theobroma*—“food of the gods.”

According to Brillat, the Italians drank it bitter, while New World señoras drank it during mass, under the chagrined eye of their bishop. King Louis XVI drank chocolate made by the pharmacist M. Debauve of rue des Saintes-Pères, 25. (His shop still stands. I ate a truffle as I left, it was pralinée.)

Brillat-Savarin drank chocolate for breakfast, claiming it had two main functions: to aid in happy bowel movements, and regulate feminine beauty. This prescription may sound absurd to us, with our indoor plumbing, fiber supplements, and vast array of grocery-aisle lipsticks. Yet in Brillat’s day, when gout and gallstones could take your life if the Jacobins didn’t, the speed of your bowels indicated not only your physical health but a spiritual one. Digestion, said Brillat, “makes us habitually sad or gay, taciturn or talkative, morose or melancholy, without our even questioning it, and especially without our being able to deny it.”

Pomba Still Life

Brillat’s breakfast tray may have looked something like Jean Gustave Pomba’s “Still Life with Hot Chocolate Pot”

In order to maintain a healthy weight and fight off disease, he recommended breakfasting with “a little meat pie, a cutlet, or a skewered kidney” (yum), then washing it down with “a bowl of Soconusco chocolate.” His version of hot chocolate began by dissolving chocolate, sugar and cinnamon in hot water, then boiling the mixture for 15 minutes, “so that the solution takes on a certain thickness,” and finally leaving it in a porcelain coffee pot overnight to develop a velvet texture. For special ailments he advised add-ins: salep for the gaunt, almond milk for the irritable, orange flower water for the nervous, and amber for the unhappy.

“Because of my scientific enthusiasm and the sheer force of my eloquence,” Brillat-Savarin wrote, “I have persuaded a number of ladies to try this, and although they were convinced it would kill them; they have always found themselves in fine shape indeed, and have not forgotten to give the Professor his rightful due.”

Which brings me to—ah, yes. The ladies. Nothing made Brillat-Savarin happier than sitting across the dinner table from a beautiful woman, engaging in “coquetry.” Though he never married, Brillat fell in love once, but the girl, Louise, wasted away from a poisonous diet. After drinking down a glass of vinegar each morning, she turned skeletal, and died at 18. Thus haunted, Brillat took on the role of beauty consultant, administering hot chocolate to the wives of friends and neighbors.

A woman (Aline Masson) drinking a cup of chocolate, by Raimundo Madrazo

This 19th century Spanish woman engages in what Brillat called “coquetry” in Raimundo de Madrazo y Garreta’s painting.

If we are what we eat, then these were people of exotic hopes, relying on sensual and sensory remedies as an answer to their bodily crises. They were health-crazed monks, monarchs and mademoiselles, peering into murky mugs for balance and beauty. They knew life was short, and drank dessert first.

Today, we still take chocolate hot. I serve about 75 European drinking chocolates on a busy day in our café, and I wonder what Brillat-Savarin would think, were he to walk in and order one. We’ve simplified ours by eliminating cinnamon and vanilla to let the flavor of the Camino Verde bean shine through, and use milk instead of water. I imagine the silky-soft, dense consistency of our European remains true to Brillat’s recipe, but this is based purely on gut instinct, and my own affinity for the man.

You see, Brillat-Savarin didn’t include any measurements. He only referenced a “cup,” which could have been an exact volume in 19th century France, or simply a drinking utensil. Furthermore, by omitting quantities for sugar, cinnamon or vanilla, his recipe remains vague and unreliable. I’ve attempted to make his drink at home several times, all with different results. So I shrug, and slug, and will continue to wonder. What I do know is Brillat had a penchant for pure, quality flavors, and from that alone I feel sure he’d deem our European très bon. In fact, judging by the size of his paunch, I expect he’d order a double.

Though Brillat-Savarin would have wandered into Dandelion at breakfast time, we San Franciscans drink chocolate all day long, and often at night, more for pleasure than for potion (though the two remain inextricably linked). We’re a people of practicality, of play, and we expect we’ll live forever. For now, at the end of each day when we fall into theobromine-infused sleep, we dream of firsts sips, lost times, and wake remembering a mishmash of sweet, holy things.

*We now know that theobromine, the bitter alkaloid C7H8N4O found in chocolate, produces certain effects on our nervous system: a rush to the head, sweaty palms, a fluttering, excessive trips to the bathroom—hold on, does this sound a bit like falling in love?

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The Cure-All

March 4, 2015 by Maverick Watson

It may only be March, but it sure feels like summer outside. If this warm weather is too soon for your taste, we’ve got just the thing to ease you from the winter blues into these sunny days. Enter our brand new drink: The Cure-All! (We actually love the warm weather, but it’s never a bad time to drink something tasty.)

bitters1

 So… What is it?

The Cure-All is an espresso tonic with bitters: a double shot of Four Barrel Friendo Blendo Espresso, a shot of Fever Tree Mediterranean Tonic, and a dash of Work Horse Rye Salted Cacao Bitters served over ice in a Gibraltar glass. It’s at once refreshing, energizing, and delicious. It’s effervescent and foamy, citrusy and rich, light and dark.

Friendo Blendo Espresso has a clean citrus acidity and syrupy body, balanced with sweet berry, stone fruit, and dark chocolate notes. This unique profile interacts playfully with Fever Tree Mediterranean Tonic Water, which combines the traditional quinine with lemon thyme, rosemary, and carbonated mineral water. The floral mingles with the bitters, resulting in a complex, compact, and satisfying beverage. The bitters, of course, are the Salted Cacao Bitters that came about from a collaboration with Workhorse Rye, and feature (among many other things) cacao from Mantuano, Venezuela.

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At various points in their history, all three of these ingredients have been used for their medicinal properties so I thought it’d be fitting to playfully title it “The Cure-All,” and although it is not intended to diagnose, prevent or treat any illness, it is really tasty.

On a side note—since The Cure-All is served in a Gibraltar glass, we will now be able to serve cortados as well!

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